Begin with the pattern specification
Use the recommended leather type and thickness for your first build. A wallet may use thinner internal pockets than its outer cover. A bag may use different materials for its body, handles and reinforcement.
Understand thickness and layers
Think about the total thickness at a seam, not just one piece. Three layers of 1.2 mm leather create approximately 3.6 mm before thread or adhesive. Extra bulk can change a fold and make a pocket too tight.
Consider temper
Temper describes how firm or flexible the leather feels. A firm leather can support a crisp cardholder; a softer leather can suit a relaxed bag. The same nominal thickness can behave differently depending on the leather.
Inspect the usable area
Check for scars, thin areas and stretches before laying out pieces. Leave room between pieces for cutting. A large rectangular panel is not the same as a hide of equal area: long straps and large panels need uninterrupted space.
Try a small sample
Test the stitch, fold and edge finish on a scrap from the same leather. A paper model helps with layout, but only a leather prototype checks thickness, stretch and the feel of the finished piece.
Keep building your skills.
Explore all guides →