Start with a cardholder
For a first wallet, choose a simple cardholder with a small number of pieces. A bifold introduces extra layers and folding allowance. Decide what it must hold before selecting a pattern; a flat cardholder is not automatically suitable for folded notes or coins.
Choose a complete pattern
Look for finished dimensions, leather thickness for each piece, a cut list and a construction guide. Check whether stitch holes are supplied or only a stitch line. Use the specified leather thickness: changing it can change both pocket capacity and how the edges meet.
Check the paper version
Print at actual size and measure the calibration mark. Cut a paper mock-up and identify the layers. Paper helps you understand the shape, but it does not reproduce the thickness or stiffness of leather. Read the entire assembly sequence before cutting.
Cut and prepare the pieces
Trace onto the leather and cut on a suitable mat, keeping your supporting hand out of the blade path. Label the flesh side lightly. Finish pocket openings that will become inaccessible after assembly. Practise cutting and punching on an offcut first.
Assemble in the specified order
Align the layers using the pattern’s reference marks. Keep any adhesive within the seam area and follow its instructions. Mark or punch matching stitch holes with a suitable backing surface. Avoid accidentally sewing across a pocket opening.
Stitch, finish and test
For a saddle stitch, fit one needle to each end of the thread and centre it through the first hole. At the next hole, pass one needle through, then the other in the opposite direction without piercing the first thread. Pull evenly and repeat the same needle order along the seam. Backstitch two or three holes to secure the ends. Trim linen thread rather than melting it. Finish the edges in a way suited to the leather. Test card insertion and removal, look for loose threads and check that the intended contents fit without forcing them. Record changes before making a second version.
Continue with our printing guide and the illustrated instructions included with each Fold & Awl pattern.
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